Is Guelaguetza the largest indigenous festival in the Americas?
July is Festival Month for Oaxacans, because of the Guelaguetza Dancing Festival that takes place in its own auditorium, a 12,000-person hall built on the very hillside of the Cerro del Fortín.Along all the Mesoamerican region, hills and elevations were once considered the guardians and the main providers of material resources for the communities nearby. As a result, the Cerro del Fortín became the spiritual and cultural center of Oaxaca City.Contrary to the popular belief, most of the dances that each region performs during the three-hour presentation aren't of prehispanic or even indigenous origin. For example, “Flor de Piña", one of the most popular dances, was created in 1958 by an elementary school teacher who was referencing the neighboring state of Veracruz' culture.In the same venue, the idea for Guelaguetza was developed around 1940, turning a small local festivity where the local families went to the Cerro del Fortín for a picnic into a whole folklore festival with the explicit intention of attracting tourism. The concept eventually grabbed hold and the dance show became famous as a showcase for the various aspects of Oaxacan Culture. From the truly indigenous origins of the vibrant clothes used to perform the “Jarabe Mixteco", to the Zapotec vision of the Spanish Conquest process reflected in “La Danza de la Pluma", Guelaguetza can be considered Oaxaca in a nutshell.The festival has become so important and diverse that it was recently used by Ayelen Olvera, candidate to be the “Diosa Centeotl” (the single most important character in the Guelaguetza), as a platform to criticize the marginalization of the indigenous people in Oaxacan society, as well as the government´s use of indigenous culture to promote a folkloric image of the local tourism industry.Olvera´s protest can be consulted here (in Spanish):
https://x.com/OaxacaPolitico/status/1940474260624978087So no, from a “purist” point of view, Guelaguetza is not an ancient 100% indigenous ritual performed to please the gods, but a living tradition that summons the very best (and the very worst) of Oaxacan Life.And you can experience it from the very first row here, at CASA SWEETIE.
What´s the best Tlayuda in Oaxaca?
Oaxaca is an international destination because of its rich culture, astonishing nature, and historical architecture. But for both seasoned travelers and locals alike, the crown jewel of Oaxaca is the food.There is a long list of dishes to try, topped by tlayudas. This delicious mix of crispy handmade tortilla, refried beans, lard, and toppings like chorizo or salted beef is not to be missed, particularly in central Oaxaca state.For the casual visitor who wants to experience the renowned Oaxacan cuisine for the first time, restaurants like Casa Taviche, Mercado 20 de Noviembre, or Asador Bacanora are excellent choices to get a taste of this traditional delicacy.Asador Bacanora is a block away from CASA SWEETIE in Barrio de Jalatlaco, while Casa Taviche and Mercado 20 de Noviembre are a 15-minute walk.For the digital nomad, expat, or even short-term visitor who wants to try places favored by the locals, there’s Tlayudas el Negro, Las Tlayudas de Libres, Las Tlayudas Antojería Oaxaqueña, and I Love Tlayudas. The presentation at these places might be a bit more humble, but their price and taste can’t be beat.Tlayudas el Negro and Las Tlayudas de Libres are located a 10-minute walk away from CASA SWEETIE. Las Tlayudas Antojería Oaxaqueña and I Love Tlayudas are our neighbors in the colorful Jalatlaco neighborhood.Visitors who are willing to venture further afield can try hidden gems like Las Tlayudas el Rio, La Tlayudería Atzompa or even Los Iglús. Getting to these places requires a 30 to 40-minute drive from the city center, but foodies will be rewarded with the best tlayudas in the region, according to many discerning Oaxaqueños!
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